“你的頭發(fā)為何梳一半不梳一半，你的臉為何洗一半不洗一半，你的手為何白一半黑一半？”……53歲的和金梅面朝太陽(yáng)肅穆而立，歌聲遏云繞梁，婉轉(zhuǎn)處催人淚下。每次當(dāng)她唱起這首藏族偉大的史詩(shī)《格薩爾王傳》，總能讓聽(tīng)者為之動(dòng)容，無(wú)論是當(dāng)?shù)厝诉€是過(guò)客。

“Why is your hair half-combed, why is your face half-washed, and why do you have black and white hands?” The 53-year-old He Jinmei was singing beautifully, facing the sun and standing squarely.　

Whenever she sang the Epic of King Gesar, the listeners would be visibly moved, be it a native or a visitor from afar.

《格薩爾王傳》是藏族的鴻篇史詩(shī)。在漫長(zhǎng)的歷史中，這部史詩(shī)一直以口口相傳的方式在藏地廣泛流傳，并逐漸藝術(shù)化，形成了獨(dú)特的“說(shuō)唱”表演和傳播形式。但讓人遺憾的是，如今在迪慶，格薩爾說(shuō)唱已成重度瀕危的非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)，能夠說(shuō)唱格薩爾的傳承人已經(jīng)不多了。

The Epic of King Gesar is one of the world's great epics, as significant for Tibetans as the Odyssey and Iliad for the ancient Greeks. In history, the epic used to be widely spread in Tibetan regions from mouth to mouth.　

But now the epic has become an endangered cultural heritage in northwest Yunnan’s Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, and only a few inheritors can sing King Gesar.

“從14歲接觸格薩爾說(shuō)唱，我就被這個(gè)故事打動(dòng)，并深深?lèi)?ài)上了它。此后幾十年，我一直跟著阿佬學(xué)唱格薩爾，現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)能把52段全部唱完了。在塔城，在迪慶，我可是除了阿佬之外唯一一個(gè)能唱完的人了。我會(huì)一直唱下去，讓格薩爾的故事代代相傳。”說(shuō)到動(dòng)情處，和金梅美麗的眼睛笑成了彎月亮。和金梅口中的“阿佬”，就是世界級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項(xiàng)目格薩（斯）爾的國(guó)家級(jí)代表性傳承人和明遠(yuǎn)。他既是和金梅的老師，更是和金梅信任和依賴(lài)的長(zhǎng)輩。

“At the age of 14, I began to sing King Gesar. The story moved me a lot and I fell in love with it. For decades, I’ve been learning the epic from the master, and now I can sing all 52 episodes." He Jinmei said passionately, smiling.

"In Diqing, I am the only one who can sing the full epic in addition to my master. I’ll go on singing so that the King’s story can be passed down from generation to generation,” she added.

Jinmei’s master is He Mingyuan, national inheritor of the world-class intangible cultural heritage project of King Gesar. For Jinmei, Mingyuan is both her teacher and a senior whom she trusts and relies on.

14歲時(shí)的一次集體勞動(dòng)，讓和金梅與格薩爾說(shuō)唱結(jié)下了一生的緣。勞動(dòng)之余，大人們跳起鍋莊，剛剛初中畢業(yè)的和金梅則纏著和明遠(yuǎn)講故事。和明遠(yuǎn)年輕時(shí)曾在寺院中學(xué)習(xí)藏文并習(xí)得了格薩爾說(shuō)唱的曲調(diào)，那個(gè)下午，格薩爾的故事就隨著和明遠(yuǎn)的講述和唱頌深深刻在了和金梅的心中。悠揚(yáng)深沉的曲調(diào)，讓被稱(chēng)為“塔城百靈鳥(niǎo)”的和金梅沉浸其中不能自拔?！拔乙銓W(xué)！”少女和金梅激動(dòng)地拉著和明遠(yuǎn)的手要求?！鞍丛蹅儾刈宓恼f(shuō)法，唱這個(gè)生活會(huì)很艱難的哦！”和明遠(yuǎn)認(rèn)真地問(wèn)?！拔也慌?！”和金梅堅(jiān)定地答。“那好，我教你?！焙兔鬟h(yuǎn)也鄭重承諾。這一教一學(xué)，就是近40年。和明遠(yuǎn)的吟唱從此不再孤單，師徒二人的格薩爾對(duì)唱，將英雄的故事傳到塔城及周邊。

A collective farming allowed He Jinmei to forge a life-long relation to the epic.

Having done the labor, the adults relaxed themselves via the Guozhuang dancing, while Jinmei, who just graduated from junior high school, nagged Mingyuan to tell her stories.

Mingyuan had studied Tibetan in the monastery and picked up some tunes in the epic. That afternoon, He Jinmei instantly fell in love with the melodies and King Gesar’s story was engraved at Jinmei’s heart.

“I want to learn from you!” said Jinmei begging Mingyuan. Back then, the 14-year-old girl was nicknamed a “l(fā)ark of Tacheng.”

“But you should understand singing the epic means you have to live a poor life,” Mingyuan told her seriously.

“I don’t care,” replied Jinmei firmly.

“That's good, and then I’ll teach you,” promised Mingyuan.

In the ensuing 40 years, Mingyuan’s epic singing has been followed by Jinmei’s clear, high voice, and their antiphonal singing spread the King’s story aross Tacheng and its nearby villages.　　一曲唱完，不僅我們深深著迷，連旁邊的藏族小伙子也聽(tīng)呆了：“我還是第一次聽(tīng)格薩爾說(shuō)唱，太美了！”和金梅笑了：“我們當(dāng)?shù)芈?tīng)過(guò)格薩爾說(shuō)唱的藏族群眾越來(lái)越少了，所以我著急得很。阿佬現(xiàn)在70多歲了，身體不太好，我只有天天纏著他，盡可能多學(xué)點(diǎn)學(xué)好點(diǎn)?！薄半y學(xué)嗎？”記者問(wèn)。“太難學(xué)了！我很聰明的，電視劇的歌看兩遍就會(huì)?？墒歉袼_爾說(shuō)唱，需要很多遍才能學(xué)會(huì)記住?！?格薩爾說(shuō)唱沒(méi)有歌譜傳世，全靠人們的記憶傳承。所以，不敢錯(cuò)不能錯(cuò)，是對(duì)傳承人的基本要求。

A tune came to an end. The audiences, including a Tibetan young man, were deeply fascinated. “It’s my first time to listen to the epic, so beautiful!” said the young man.

Jinmei smiled: “Fewer and fewer Local Tibetans listened to King Gesar’s epic, so I am quite anxious. The master is now in his 70s, and he isn’t in good health. I’m still nagging, trying to learn from him as much as possible.”

“Is it easy to learn the epic?” one listener asked. “No! Very hard. I was smart in singing, and I picked up songs on TV that was played once or twice. But for the epic tunes, it took me many times to learn a single tune.”

The King Gesar epic has no written musical notes, and the singer has to learn the melodies all by heart. As an inheritor, it is essential to make no mistake. Mistakes are taboo.

一項(xiàng)技藝的傳承不僅靠喜愛(ài)，更要靠堅(jiān)持。為了學(xué)好學(xué)全，和金梅幾乎把所有的休息時(shí)間都用上了。向老師一句一句地請(qǐng)教，回家一段一段背誦。“我學(xué)了那么多年，直到最近幾年，才把阿佬掌握的十多個(gè)唱腔、50余段故事全部學(xué)會(huì)。”看著旁邊跳得熱火朝天的熱巴，和金梅頗有個(gè)性地說(shuō)：“塔城的藏族都愛(ài)跳熱巴，我以前也愛(ài)，還是維西縣級(jí)非物質(zhì)文化遺產(chǎn)項(xiàng)目塔城熱巴舞代表性傳承人呢！可現(xiàn)在，我就獨(dú)愛(ài)格薩爾說(shuō)唱，我要成為格薩爾說(shuō)唱的傳承人！”陽(yáng)光穿過(guò)碧藍(lán)的天空，鋪灑在色彩對(duì)比鮮明的藏式木樓前，讓人看到了塔城文化最艷麗最熾熱的一面。

To learn the epic, Jinmei almost devoted all her leisure time. “Over the past decades, I have been singing, but finished it only in recent years. The epic covers more than 50 episodes in ten plus tunes, said Jinmei.At the lively Reba dancing nearby, He Jinmei recalled she used to be good at the dancing like most Tibetans in Tacheng, but now what she want to do is to be the inheritor of the King Gesar epic.

In the sun shines and under the blue sky, the dancing and singing formed a marvelous picture of Tacheng’s local culture in front of the Tibetan wooden houses.

為了保護(hù)格薩爾說(shuō)唱這項(xiàng)重度瀕危非遺，當(dāng)?shù)叵肓撕芏噢k法。除了和金梅，和明遠(yuǎn)也在對(duì)自己的子孫輩口傳心授，希望能有更多的人掌握這項(xiàng)傳統(tǒng)的藝術(shù)。而作為塔城村委會(huì)的婦女主任，和金梅也會(huì)在各種場(chǎng)合推廣格薩爾說(shuō)唱。“來(lái)，讓我給你們唱一個(gè)偉大英雄的故事吧！”已成為和金梅在村級(jí)活動(dòng)結(jié)束后的“口頭禪”。

To save this heavily-endangered art, He Jinmei and He Mingyuan are now teaching their own offspring, trying to get more people engaged in tradition.

As women’s director of the Tacheng Village Committee, He Jinmei even promotes the epic in public. “Come on! Let me sing you a heroic story.” Jinmei often says at the end of villagers’ meetings.

“給我準(zhǔn)備一頂黃色的狐貍帽，給我準(zhǔn)備一個(gè)象牙的板指，給我準(zhǔn)備一雙氆氌做的烏拉靴……”看周?chē)娜藗兌汲磷碛谶@意味悠長(zhǎng)的吟唱，格薩爾說(shuō)唱的傳承之火定不會(huì)熄滅。

“Give me a yellow fox cap, give me a thumb ring made of ivory, and give me a pair of boots with Tibetan wool...” He Jinmei continued her singing.

云南日?qǐng)?bào)全媒體記者 張若谷 熊燕 儲(chǔ)東華 李文君

英文編譯 王世學(xué)